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Here’s what I learned after a 2 year pause of surfing

Surfing is a sport that requires constant effort to be good at. Once you’ve learned the basics, its almost impossible to forget how to paddle, when and where to go in, and what kind of board to ride.

Down below we’ll discuss some of the key points that should be considered once you are about take on surfing after a long time off.


 

1. The excitement is worth it

Good things come to those who wait – right?

It is hard to describe the feeling when you are about to ‘get in’ after a few long years NOT surfing. You are finally all geared up, the weather has aligned and you are about to walk in the ocean with a surfboard.

It won’t matter if you are not in great shape, you’ll feel an instant adrenaline boost once you are half-way in the water, about to jump on the board and paddle out. It is a feeling many of us literally live for.

You are going to paddle into the freedom.

surfer going in

 

2. Mid-lenghts are underrated

If you haven’t surfed for a while, you should definitely start out with a more relaxed board such as hybrid, mini-mal or a mid-length. I decided to get a 7’2″ midlength, and it has definitely become one of my favorite board types for all-year riding.

midlength surfboard

 

3. Don’t get too carried away with warm-ups

Probably not the best advice but if you are not in a great shape, just go in and take it easy. If you are not completely sure which are the good stretches & warmup exercises – you might end up doing more harm than good. Just start slow and take your time for your body to warm up.

 

4. Postcard views all day long

Every wave is different, and so are the conditions. It is impossible to get sick of just looking at passing waves, especially those that challenge you in way. As messy as it can look, there’s always that split-second perfection seen on a breaking wave.

Nature never stops amusing.

incoming wave

 

4. The first wave is going to be epic

Now once you’ve made your way to the break line and been waiting for the right wave (and the wave has been probably waiting for you too!), you lock your eyes and mind on it, turn the board and start paddling.

incoming wave

 

 

5. Surfing is like nothing else there

Simple as that.

surfer

 

6. Think twice before heading back out for that last wave

It doesn’t matter how exhausted you feel, every single wave gives you a boost that high you don’t feel the real fatigue anymore, and without a second doubt you start paddling back out again. “I’m just going to catch that last wave and we’re done for the day, right?” Your muscles might regret the decision once you are having a shower, or when you wake up the next day, or 24 hours later.

surfers in the water

 

7. The first day is going to be rough though

I’ve forgotten the fact that wetsuits need some time to be ‘broken-in’ after a solid time off. Especially a 5mm steamer.

Once you’ve had your fun and fatigue starts kicking in, you decide to catch that last wave and get back to the shore. Look back, thank the ocean, and head back home. I spent maybe 1.5 hours in the water once my shoulders wanted to give up, and I felt that again when trying to take off the chest-zip wetsuit. That was a kind of a struggle I won’t forget.

 

8. Your health is about to improve

Surfing has a long list of benefits and it kind of activates what’s been forgotten from the previous session. It is not only the physical exercise but the freedom of movement and spending some quality time in a completely different element. Away from electronics and the rules found on land.

Surfing helps to clear the mind, get rid of brain fog and mental fatigue like nothing else out there. I bet if there would be a drug that simulates the feeling of surfing a wave – it could cure almost all the problems in the world.

  • Improved appetite.
  • Improved sleep quality.
  • Improved mobility.
  • Increased well-being.

 

The SUM

I would have never skipped two years off the waves but due to Covid and poor surf conditions back home, I’ve been landlocked for years.

Besides, I’ve had a hard time coping with the fact that there are no surf beaches close by.

It has now been three months since I’ve surfed weekly and it feels right to be ‘back in the rut’. Surfing is one of the best remedies I’ve found, and oh boy have I looked hard to find it.

  • Last time surfed – 2019 September (San Sebastian, Spain)
  • Started surfing again – in 2021 September (Somo, Spain)

Just take it easy and go with the flow, don’t force it and things will work out just fine. You can not forget the skill of surfing even after some odd years have passed by.


 

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About the author

Ermo J

I created Nulltuul to share my experience, knowledge, and analysis with other surf enthusiasts out there. If I'm not surfing on my travels, I like to photograph waves, surfers, and the surf lifestyle in general.

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